Sewing machine



Aug 19, 1941. KERNER 2,253,077

smwme MACHINE Filed Oct. 24, 1940' 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 mmun I mum lllillHilllllllllilfl;

i 1 1NVTOR. BY Anton/flame)",

? ATTORNEY.

19, 1941. A. KIERNER SEWING MACHINE Filed Oct. 24, 1940 4 Sheets-Sheet 2INVENTOR. ,zezvzer,

Ania

Joy A "ATTORNEY... v

Aug. 19, 1941. A. KIERNER 2,253,077

SEWING. MACHINE Filed Oct. 24, 1940 4 Sheets-Sheet 5 NEEDLE LININVENTOR.

7 ATTORNEY.

19, 1941- A. KIERNER 2,253,077

SEWING MACHINE Filed Oct. 24, 1940 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 Z4 4 M 7 A? 4325- 2720 8 1| 1 IN 8 Patented A ug.\ 19, 1941 2,253,077 SEWING MACHINE AntonKierner, Elizabeth, N. J., assignor to Emil I Prazak, Elizabeth, N. J.

Application October 24, 1940, Serial No. 362,524

I plaited trimming comprising spaced groups of 14 Claim.

This invention relates to sewing machines; and the invention hasreference, more particularly, to improvements in sewing machines wherebythe machine is adapted to automatically form and apply to goods operateduponplaited ap pliques, trimmings and the like.

'Ihe invention has for an object to provide a novel automatic materialplaiting means together with means for eifecting the operation thereofin timed relation to stitch forming means of I a sewing rnachinecontaining the same,whereby the plaited material is both formed and sewnto the goods to which it isdesired' to apply the same as a trimming orthe like.

The invention has for a further object to provide'novel control meanscooperative with the mechanism for operating the plaiting means,

whereby the latter may be thrown into and out of service at the will ofthe machlneoperator without interrupting the operation of the stitchforming mechanism of themachine.

Other objects of this invention, not at this time more particularlyenumerated, will become apparent in the following detailed descriptionof the same.

An illustrative embodiment of this invention is shown in theaccompanying drawings, in which- Fig. 1 is a front side elevational viewof the V machine equipped with the novel plaiting mech- "anism accordingto theinvention; Fig. 2 is a hora izontal view with parts broken away,said view beingiakenon line 2-2 in Fig. 1; Fig. 3 is a transversevertical section, taken on line l3 in Fig. 2, but drawn on anenlargedscale: Fig. 4 is a view similar to that of Fig. 2, but. showing theoperation of the plaiting mechanism interrupted; Fig. 5 is a transversevertical section,

taken on line 5-5 in Fig. 4, but drawn on an enlarged scale; Fig. 6 isafragmentary end view of the plaitlngmechanism, looking toward the rightin Fig. 1, this viewbeing also drawn on an enlarged scale. 1

Fig. 7 is a fragmentary plan view of the plaiting means in retractedposition, ready to initiate a pleat forming operation; Fig. 8 is alongitudinal sect onal view ofthe same, taken on line 8-4 in Fig. 7;Fig. 9 is a view similanto'fthat of Fig. l. but showing the plaitingmeans advanced to pleat forming position; and'iig. 10 is a longitudinalsect onal view of thesame, takenon line il il in Fig. 9.

Fig. 11 is a diagrammatic plan view showing previously formed pleats andthe initial stage in the formation of a succeedingpleat; Fig. 12 is asimilar view showing the formation of said succeeding pleat; and Fig.13is a diagrammatic transverse sectional view, taken on line iI-il inFig. 12. V

Fig.14 is a fragmentary planview showing a pleats capable of productionby the sewing ma:- ch-ine of this invention.

Similar characters of reference are employed in the above describedviews, to indicate corresponding parts.

Referring to the drawings, the reference character I indicates the baseof a sewing machine 5 having an upstanding pedestal 2 from whichproiects the arm 3 in such manner that the same overhangs said base i.At the free end of the arm 3 is the vertically disposed head 4.

Journaled in the arm 3, to extend longitudinal ly therethrough, is thedrive shaft 5. Fromthis drive shaft is driven, through the customarytransmission'means, the vertically reciprocable i needle-bar 6 withwhich the head 4 is provided,-

the same being equipped at its lower end with suitably spaced sewingneedles I (the machine being of the well-known two-needle type). Thesewing mechanism is of the lock-stitch producing kind, and thereforeincludes the customary rotary hook or looper devices (not shown), which,are operated by well-known actuating means for cooperation with saidsewing needles I. Also supported by the head 4 is the vertically movablecarrier bar I of a yieldable presser foot 8. Said presser footcooperates witha feed-dog means Ill operative through the slotted throatplate H of the machine, whereby .material A operated upon is controlledand advanced relative to the sewingmechanism for normal stitchformation;

said feed-dog means being operated in the manner and by means (notshown) well known to the art.

channeled foot-piece having a rearwardly open bottom bounded by sidebars I 2 and bridged at its forward end by a bottom plate 13 of reducedthickness, said bottom plate. tapering in thickness to provide adownwardly and rearwardly inclined floor adapted to converge upon theunderlying throat plate ll, so as to terminate somewhat forward of theline of sewing needle movement.

The pleating means for pleating a strip B of trimming material to beapplied andstitched to the material A comprises the following structure:

,plaitins member 2|. The plaiting member com- The presser foot 9includes a longitudinally member 21.

prises athin plate-like body to the rearward end portion of which saidhinging knuckle 20 is affixed, whereby the plaiting member inclinesdownwardly and forwardly toward the presser foot 9. Said plaiting member21 is of a width adapted to enter between the side bars [2 of thepresser foot so that its forward end portion may be reciprocably movedback and forth within the channeled way with which the latter isprovided. Said plaiting member is yieldably urged to swing its free endportion toward the presser foot, whereby the same,operatively cooperateswith both the floor of the presser foot bottom plate.l3 and with themachine throat plate ll beyond the forward termination of said bottomplate l3. To this end coiled spring means 22 is mounted on and aroundthe lever arm boss l8, so that one terminal 23 of said spring meansengages the lever arm I'I, and the other terminal arm 24 exerts adownward swinging thrust upon the plaiting member 2|, the latter havingan outwardly projecting abutment lug 2l' engageable by said springterminal arm 24. Said plaiting member is provided in its,free endportion with outwardly open slotways 25 which are respectively alignedwith the respective paths of reciprocation of the sewing needles I, soas to permit the adjacent portions of said plaiting member to straddlesaid sewing needles at proper times.

Affixed to said plaiting member 2|, in superposed relation thereto, isthe body 26 of a pleat shifter means. shifter means comprises anupwardly and forwardly inclined push-piece 21 which projects from andbeyond the operative free end portion of said plaitin'g member 2|. Saidpush-piece 21 is of somewhat less width than the width of the plaitingmember 2|. The trimming material B to be plaited may comprise a strip offabric or like material of selected width which, prior to submission tothe operation of the plaiting member,2|', may have its longitudinalmarginal portions turned or folded inwardly to conceal the raw edgesthereof. In such case, a suitable marto pass before being operativelyengaged by the effective forward end portion of said plaiting If thematerial to be plaited is in the form of braid, tape or other stripmaterial having salvaged or otherwise finished longitudinal margins, sothat inturning of margins to conceal rough edges is unnecessary,thensaid turn-over guide or folder member 28 may be The operative partof this 'pieat the machine arm 3 is a bearing stud 29 having atransverse opening 39 through which the drive shaft. 5 extends.Projecting axially from the outer end of said bearing stud29 is ajournal stud 3|. Rotatably mounted on said journal stud 3| is a plaitingmeans actuating cam member 32 having in its outer portion an annularraceway 33 Bounded on--its inner side with a suitably shaped cam face34, and on its outer side with a smooth faced neutral flange 35. Formedon or otherwise suitably connected with the inner end of said cam member32 is a driven bevel gear 36. Afhxe'd on said drive shaft 5 is a bevelpinion 31 which meshes with and drives said bevel gear 36, and thus thecam member 32'. The front side wall of the machine arm 3 is pierced withan opening 38 exposing said cam member 32 so as to give the cooperatingmechanism access thereto. Affixed on the rearward end portion of therock-shaft I6 is an upwardly projecting rocker arm 39, the upper freeend portion of which is provided with a roller stud 40 to engage in theraceway 33 of said cam member 32. Said rocker arm 39 is provided with adependent tail-piece 4|, and said bracket plate I4 is also provided witha fixed dependent tongue 42 which is opposed to said tail-piece 4|.Engaged between said tail-piece 4| and tongue 42 is a compression spring43, the respective ends of which are supported by seating studs 44 and45 with which said tail-piece and tongue are respectively provided. Saidspring 43 yieldabiy urges said rocker arm 39 to inwardly swung positionto cause its roller stud 40 to normally cooperate with and'followthe camface 34 of said cammember 32. In order to adjustably and exactlydetermine the limit of the operative pleat form ing stroke of theplaiting member 2| under the inswinging movement of the lever arm I]which carries the same, there is affixed to said rockshaft IS anupwardly extending stoparm 46, through the free end portion of whichisthreaded an adjustable stop-screw 41, the end of which is adapted toabut the machine arm 3, so as to limit the rocking movement of saidrock-shaft 16 under the control of the cam face 34 of said,

stop arm 46 to secure said stop-screw against displacement from apredetermined position to which it has been adjusted.

Control means is provided for cooperation with said stop arm 46, wherebythe plaiting'means may be thrown into and out of service at the will ofthe machine operator without stopping the machine or interrupting thecontinued operation of the stitch forming mechanism, when it is desiredto sew portions of the trimming strip B in flatly applied relation tothe material A, i. e. without pleat formation therein. This controlmeans comprises, a lever 49 pivotally mounted in connection with themachine arm 3. Afiixed to this lever 49 is a detent arm 50 adapted tocooperate with said stop arm 46. Said detent arm 50 is yieldably held ina normally depressed or down swung position by a pull-spring 5|, inwhich position its end portion'is displaced out of the path of movementof said stop arm 46. When said detent arm 50 is thus depressed, thelever 49 is disposed in up'-swung position (see Figs, 1 and 3)Connectedwith the free endpqrtion of the lever 49 is a pull rod 52,which may include, if desired, the yieldable "ortensional couplingspring connection 53. The lower end of said pull 49 compelled to followtheflneutral flange 35"of v the cam member. 32, and consequently beingprevented from cooperating with the cam face 34 of I the latter (seeFigs. 4 and 5). .With the rockshaft thus heldstatlonary in outwardlyrocked position, the lever arm ll will'be held stationary in inwardlyswung position whereby the plaiting means is, held inactive aftercompleting the last previously formed pleat, and until the detent arm Wis released and returned to'normal initial position to permit renewal ofplaiting operations.

The trimming strip 3 may be drawn from a supply roll ll from which it isled to the folder and bends or swings the same forwardly so as v to passthe same between and forwardly beyond the stitch threads t extendingtothe raised needles 1 from the terminals of the last formed straightrun stitch, and; at the same time, so

as to shift the bight of. the pleat out of the needlcpath prior. todescent of the needles 1 (see Figs. 9, 10, 12 and 13). After the pleat pis thus formed and since it has been pushed between the threads, whichyield to its passage,

whereby the threads are disposed to lie exteriorly to complete skirtingstitches s which are thus 'of the respective side margins of the pleatand across the same, the sewing needles I descend drawn into place so asto engage exteriorly around the pleat ends; The plaiting means is heldin the'described advanced position until the desired ensuing straightrun stitches s are formed, whereafter the above described operations arerepeated. A

If desired, the trimmingmaterlal B may be continuously: plaited toform-an uninterrupted plate II, as. the case may be. As initiallydisposed, while the rocker arm roller stud 40 rides on the high straightrun of the cam member cam face 34, whereby to outswing the rocker arm I!and thus outwardly rock the rock-shaft I 6 to swing forward the leverarm H which formation of the last such straight ru stitch, rotation ofthe cam member" movesithe low part of the cam face 34 into cooperationwith the rocker arm roller stud 40, so as to permit the rocker arm 39 toswing inwardly under the thrust of the spring means 43, thus inwardlyrocking the rock-shaft ,l! to, swing rearward the lever arm I! wherebythe plaiting means is retracted to a position for initiating its pleatforming operation (see more particularly Figs. '7, 8 and ll). .In suchposition, the operative forward edge of the plaiting member 2! grips thestrip of trimming material B against the forwardly and downwardlyinclined floor of the presser foot bottom plate l3. As the sewingneedles 1 rise upon completing the said last straight run stitch, thelow part of the cam face 3| passes beyond the rocker arm roller stud 40to again outswing the rocker arm 39 so as to rock the rock shaft "toswing forward the lever arm l'l, thus advancing the plaiting member 2|,whereby, the strip of trimming material is pushed ahead so: as to forman upstanding pleat p, so disposed that the rear side of its base isapproximately aligned to the path of reciprocation of the sewingneedles 1. During such pleat forming operation, as the operative edge ofthe plaiting member passes beyond the forward terminal of the presserfoot bottom plate l3,the same also functions to advance tham'aterial Asome what in excess'of the distance the latter material is normally fedby the operation of the feed dog means- HI, thus compensating, the, feedof the material A in consonance with the transverse thickness of, theformed pleat p. As the formatfon o the pleat p is thus completed, theforwardly and upwardly inclined push-piece 21 of the pleat shiftermeans, which is carried by the plaiting member 2|, engages the formedpleat to beformed. In properly timed relation to the succession ofpleats. It is sometimes desirable, however, for the purpose of obtainingvariations of ornamental effects, to form the pleats in spaced groupssimilarly as shown in Fig. 14. The operator may accomplish this end byactuating the pull rod 52 to interpcse the detent' arm 50 in arrestingrelation to the stop arm 46 as above described, thereby to hold theplaiting means out of service, while continuous straight run sttches sare formed to flatly sew down the trimming material *13 according to thespacingdistance desired to be'provided between the groups of pleats. Itwill be understood that the number of pleats in the group is likewiseeontrollable by the operator accordingly as the plaiting means is putinto or taken out of service by the latter.

It will be understood that various changes anism including laterallyspaced vertically reciproca'ble sewing needles, a centrally open presserfoot bridged at its forward end portion by a bottom plate terminating,in direction, of

the movement of work, somewhat beyond the path of needle reciprocation,a material plaiting means adapted to form upstandingpleats in thematerial. said plaiting meanscomprising a material engaging plaitingmember adapted to an upwardly and forwardly inclined operative endportion freely projecting beyond the operatve end of said plaitingmember, said pleat shifter being adapted to temporarily swing forward aformed pleat so as to pass the same between thet-hreads of theraisedsewing needles prior to stitch completing descent of said needles,whereby pleat skirting stitches disposed to pass exteriorly around thepleat sides are formed by the descending needles.

2. In a sewing machine having a sewing mech-.

anism including laterally spaced vertically re- 5 ciprocable sewingneedles, a centrally open presser foot bridged at its forward endportion'by a bottom plate terminating, in direction of the movement ofwork, somewhat beyond the path of needle reciprocation, a materialplaiting means adapted to form upstanding pleats in the material, saidplaiting means comprising a material engaging plaiting member adapted totraverse said presser foot bottom plate, its operative-stroke being inthe direction of the movement of work,

means to-retract and advance said plaiting member relative to a pointslightly beyond the path "of needle reciprocation and in timed relationto stitch forming movements of said needles,-a pleat shifter meansrigidly affixed to said plaiting member, the same having an upwardly andforwardly inclinedoperative end portion freely projecting beyond theoperative end of said plaiting member, said pleat shifter means beingadapted to temporarily swing forward a formed pleat so as to mechanismof a sewing machine, material plait ing means in advance of the machineneedles adapted by its operative stroke toward said needles to formupstanding pleats in the material subject to stitching operations of thesewing mechanism, and pleat shifter means rigidly 4 traverse saidpresser foot bottom plate, said plaitaffixed to said plaiting means, thesame having an upwardly and forwardly inclined operative end portionfreely projecting beyond the operative end of said plaiting means, saidpleat shifter means being adapted to swing forward a formed pleat so asto pass the same between the threads of the raised sewing needles priorto a stitch com pleting descent of said needles, whereby pleat skirtingstitches disposed to pass exteriorly around the pleat sides are formedby the descending needles.

4; In a sewing machine having a drive shaft extending through its armand a two-needl sewing mechanism operated thereby, a centrally openpresser foot bridged at its forward end portion by 5 a bottom plateterminating,in direction of the movement of work, somewhat beyond thepath of needle reciprocation, material plaiting means adapted to formupstanding pleats in the m terial, said plaiting means including a pleatshifter means rigidly affixed thereto and having an upwardly andforwardly inclined operative end portion freely projecting beyond theoperative end of said plaiting means, said pleat shifter means beingadapted to swing forward a formed pleat so as to pass the same betweenthe threads of the raised sewing needles prior to a stitch completingdescent of said needles, whereby pleat skirting stitches disposed topass ,exteriorly around the pleat sides are formed by the descend- 7 ingneedles, osclllatable means for causing said plaiting means toreciprocably traverse said presser foot bottom plate with pleat formingeffect, andcam means operated by said drive shaft for actuating saidoscillatable means in timed relation to stitch'forming movement ofthesewe ingneedles.

5. In a sewing machine havinga drive shaft extending through its arm anda two-needle sewing mechanismoperated thereby, a centrally open presserfoot bridged at its forward end por tion by a bottom plate terminating,in direction of the movement'of work,somewhat beyond the path of needlereciprocation, material plaiting means adapted'to form upstandingpleats-in the material, said plaiting means including a pleat shiftermeans rigidly afllxed thereto and having an upwardly and forwardlyinclined operative end portion freely-projecting beyond the operativeend of said plaiting means; said pleat shifter means beingadapted toswing'forward a'formed pleat so as to pass the same between the threadsof the raised sewing needles prior to a stitch completing descent ofsaid needles, whereby pleat skirting stitches disposed to passexteriorly around the pleat sides are formed by the descending. needles,"oscillatable means for causing said plaiting means to reciprocablytraverse said presser foot bottom plate with pleat forming effect, cammeans operated by said drive shaft for actuating said oscillatablemeans-in timed rela tion to stitch-"forming"movements of the sewingneedles, and manipulatable means for interrupting the operation of saidoscillatable means and.

said plaiting means actuated thereby without interrupting continuedoperation of the sewing mechanism.

6. In a sewing machine having a drive shaft extending through its armand a two-neede sewing mechanism operated thereby, acentrally openpresser'foot bridged at its forward end portion by a countersunk taperedbottom plate termi nating, in direction of the movement of work somewhatbeyond the path of needle reciprocation, material plaiting means toreciprocably iecting beyond the operative end of said plaiting means forthe purposes described, and .means'to actuate said plaiting means intimed relation to stitch forming movements of said sewing needlescomprising, a rock-shaft mounted exteriorly along the front face of themachine arm, a dependent lever arm aillxed to said rock-shaft to thelower *end of which said plaiting means is pivotally connected, springmeans to yieldably urge said plaiting means toward said presser footbottom plate, a rocker-arm afllxed to said rockshaft, and cam meansoperated by said drive shaft for actuating said rocker-arm.

7. In a sewing machine having a drive shaft extending through its armand a two-needle sewing mechanism operated thereby, a centrally openpresser foot bridged at its forward end portion by a countersunk taperedbottom plate terminating somewhat in advanceof the path of needle reciprocation, material plaiting means to reciprocably traverse said presserfoot bottom plate, said plaiting means including a pleat shifter meansfor the purposes described, and means to actuate said plaiting means intimed relation to stitch forming ailixed to said rock-shaft to the lowerend of which said plaiting'means is pivotally connected, spring means toyieldably urge said plaiting means toward said presser foot bottomplate, a cam member operated by said drive shaft, said cam member havingan annular raceway bounded on one side by a suitably shaped cam face andon its other side by a neutral face,a rocker arm affixed to saidrock-shaft having a roller stud to ride in said cam raceway, springmeans for normally urging said rocker arm in direction to cause itsroller stud to follow the cam face of said cam member, a stop arm alsoaflixed to said rockshaft, a detent means, and operator controlled meansfor moving said detent means at will into engagement with said stop armthereby to retain said rocker arm in position to cause its roller studto follow the neutral face of said cam member whereby actuation of theplaiting means is arrested without interrupting continued operationofthe sewing mechanism.

8. In a sewing machine having a drive shaft extending through its armand a two-needle sewing mechanism operated thereby, a centrally openpresser foot bridged at its forward end portion by a countersunk taperedbottom plate terminating somewhat in advance of the path of needlereciprocation, material plaiting means to reciprocably traverse saidpresser foot bottom plate, said plaiting means including a pleat shiftermeans of the purposes described, and means to actuate said plating meansin timed relation to stitch forming movements of said sewing needlescomprising, a rock-shaft mounted exteriorly along the front face of themachine arm, a dependent lever arm affixed to said rock-shaft to thelower end of which said plaiting means is pivotally connected, springmeans to yieldably urge said plaiting means toward said presser footbottom plate, a cam member operated by said drive shaft, said cammemberhaving an annular raceway bounded on one side by a suitably shapedcam face and on its other side by a neutral face, a rocker arm affixedto said rock-shaft having a roller stud to ride in said cam raceway,spring means for normally urging said rocker arm in direction to causeits roller stud to follow the cam face of said cam member, a stop armalso affixed to said rock-shaft, a detent means, operator controlledmeans for moving said detent means at will into engagement with saidstop arm thereby to retain said rocker arm in position to cause itsroller stud to follow the neutral face of said cam member wherebyactuation of the plaiting means is arrested without interruptingcontinued operation of the sewing mechanism, and said stop arm having anadjustable stop screw to abut the adjacent machine arm, whereby toadjustably limit the pleat forming stroke of the plaiting means.

9. A sewing machine as-defined in claim 6 including, a stop arm affixedto said rock-shaft, and an adjustable stop screw carried by said stoparm to abut the adjacent machine arm,

whereby to adjustably limit the pleat forming stroke of the plaitingmeans.

10. A sewing machine as defined in claim 1 wherein the meansforretracting and advancing the plaiting member comprises, a rock-shaft,a dependent lever arm affixed to said rock-shaft by which said plaitingmember is carried, spring means to yieldably urge the thus carriedplaiting member toward the presserfoot bottom plate, a. driven cammember having an annular raceway bounded on one side by a suitablyshaped cam face, a rocker arm affixed to said rockshaft having a rollerstud to ride in said cam raceway, and spring means for normally urgingsaid rocker arm in direction to cause its roller stud to follow the camface of said cam member. 11. A sewing machine as defined in claim 1wherein the means for retracting and advancing the plaiting membercomprises, a rock-shaft, a dependent lever arm affixed to saidrock-shaft by which said plaiting member is carried, spring means toyieldably urge the thus carried plaiting member toward thepresser footbottom plate, a driven cam member having an annular raceway bounded onone side by a suitably shaped cam face, a rocker arm affixed to saidrock-shaft having a roller stud to ride in said cam raceway, springmeans for normally urging said rocker arm in direction to cause itsroller stud to follow the cam face of said member, a stop arm affixed tosaid rock-shaft, and said stop arm having an adjustable stop screwtoabut the machine frame, whereby to adjustably limitthe pleat formingstroke of the plaiting member,

12. A sewing machine as defined in claim 2 wherein the means forretracting and advancing the plaiting member comprises, a rock-shaft, a

dependent lever arm afilxed to said rock-shaft by which said plaitingmember is carried, spring means to yieldably urge the thus carriedplaiting member toward the presser foot bottom plate, a drivenicammember having an annular raceway bounded on one side by a suitablyshaped cam face and on its other side by a neutral face, a rocker armaffixed to said rock-shaft having a roller stud toride in said camraceway, and spring means for normally urging said rocker arm indirection to cause its roller stud to follow the cam face of said cammember, and wherein the means for holding the plating means out ofservice comprises a stop arm also aflixed to said rock-shaft, a detentmeans, and operator controlled means for moving said detent means atwill into engagement with said stop arm thereby to-retain said rockerarm in position to cause its roller stud to follow the neutral face ofsaid cam member.

13. A sewing machine as defined in claim 1 including, a turn-over guideaffixed to the underside of the plaiting member behind its operative endwhereby to return the side marginal portions of the material to bepleated prior to formation of pleats therein. 5

' 14. In combination with the sewing mechanism of a sewing machine,material plaiting means, a pleat shifter means rigidly affixed theretoand having an upwardly and forwar ly inclined operative end portionfreely projec ing beyond the operative end of said plaiting means forthe purposes described, the operative stroke of said plaiting means andpleat shifter means being in the direction of movement of the Workthrough the machine, means to reciprocate said plaiting means and pleatshifter means in timed relation to the sewing mechanism, and a turn-overguide affixed to the underside of said plaiting means behind itsoperative end whereby to in-turn the side marginal portions of thematerial to be pleated prior to formation of pleats therein.

ANTON IHERNE'R.

